"It relaxes you," explained Chief Selwyn Garu, enjoying his second cup at dusk. "In fact, I'm struggling to talk right now!"

Vanuatu defends its famous drink
By Andrew Harding

BBC News, Vanuatu – Wednesday, 18 July 2007

The tiny Pacific nation of Vanuatu is battling to defend the reputation of its national drink, a bitter peppery concoction called kava, which is famous for its medicinal, stress-relieving properties.

Since 2000, kava has been banned by many European countries, following claims that the herbal remedy can cause severe liver damage.

Now Australia has imposed tight new import restrictions because of concerns that it is being abused in some Aboriginal communities.

But in Vanuatu, kava drinking remains an essential evening ritual, as the roots of the Piper methysticum plant are washed, chopped, mashed (ideally with a stick of dry coral) and strained into coconut cups.

“Everyone knows here that kava is not dangerous,” said Dr Vincent Lebot, a kava expert and enthusiast, based in Vanuatu.

“It is not like alcohol or nicotine. It is not addictive.”

Many people on these remote islands believe that kava has been unjustly demonised.

They claim that the herb – once widely available globally in pill form as a natural treatment for stress and anxiety, and known as “kava kava” – was encroaching on the turf of international pharmaceutical companies.

Now Vanuatu’s case has been strengthened by a new report from the World Health Organisation which appears to rule out a link between kava and liver damage.

“Kava cleared!” a recent headline in the local newspaper in Port Vila proclaimed.

Instead, local people point to Kava’s stress-relieving properties.

“It relaxes you,” explained Chief Selwyn Garu, enjoying his second cup at dusk. “In fact, I’m struggling to talk right now!”

“Beer makes you excited. It sets people at each others’ throats. But kava makes you want to sit still.”

Despite the new restrictions imposed by Australia, kava traders in the Pacific are now hoping to revive their export industry, which has been badly damaged by the bans in Europe and elsewhere.

Chief Selwyn – one of Vanuatu’s most senior tribal chiefs – is optimistic.

“If you think about big markets, if they open up to kava, then it’s going to be [as popular as] the Cuban cigar.”

But Vincent Lebot is more wary.

“I’m not sure. In Europe, consumers are already scared. The damage is already done.”

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About Jay Babcock

I am an independent writer and editor based in Tucson, Arizona. In 2023: I publish an email newsletter called LANDLINE = https://jaybabcock.substack.com Previously: I co-founded and edited Arthur Magazine (2002-2008, 2012-13) and curated the three Arthur music festival events (Arthurfest, ArthurBall, and Arthur Nights) (2005-6). Prior to that I was a district office staffer for Congressman Henry A. Waxman, a DJ at Silver Lake pirate radio station KBLT, a copy editor at Larry Flynt Publications, an editor at Mean magazine, and a freelance journalist contributing work to LAWeekly, Mojo, Los Angeles Times, Washington Post, Vibe, Rap Pages, Grand Royal and many other print and online outlets. An extended piece I wrote on Fela Kuti was selected for the Da Capo Best Music Writing 2000 anthology. In 2006, I was somehow listed in the Music section of Los Angeles Magazine's annual "Power" issue. In 2007-8, I produced a blog called "Nature Trumps," about the L.A. River. From 2010 to 2021, I lived in rural wilderness in Joshua Tree, Ca.

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